From a 80-year old plus vines in “Perelles Le Haut”, in the Mâcon La Roche Vineuse appellation. The parcel is planted to Aligoté Doré, the original clone of Aligoté, which used to be considered Chardonnay’s equal and was co-planted in many celebrated Chardonnay parcels. Old vines, great exposition, cool nights, and limestone, all combine to make for a special site for Aligoté. The vines are farmed sustainably without use of herbicides, pesticides nor insecticides.
Hand picked, half the grapes were placed as whole clusters in a sealed tank for a carbonic maceration, the other half was destemmed and macerated with its juice. After seven days, both macerations were pressed and combined into old 300 litre oak barrels to continue fermentation, with no additions, temperature control nor SO2. The wine sat on full lies, undisturbed for nine months before being bottled. A light filtering and minimal effective SO2 added before bottling.
Same fruit as for the straight Aligoté. 13 days’ skin contact, half of the wine underwent carbonic maceration. The other half destemmed. Very slightly cloudy. Aroma is even more intense than the straight Aligoté. Herbal and a touch of white blossom. Stony/mineral, too. Lightly tannic but the tannins give a bit more weight and texture. 16.5 - Julia Harding MW for www.jancisrobinson.com
The same grapes are used as for the regular Aligoté, but they are treated differently. Andrew has two tanks, in both of which the juice spends 13 days on skins, one tank as whole bunches, and one destemmed. Then the contents are pressed and fermented in old wood. More perfume but nicely handled, not aggressive. Thickness of texture, orange and lime skins, great length. When to drink? Very cold in summer, or with Asian food? Those were my thoughts, and also those of Emma Nielsen when I asked her advice. 88 points, 4 stars - Jasper Morris MW