From a 40 year old parcel of Chardonnay on Argovian white limestone, a rarity in Santenay, where the Bajocian red soil of the Côte de Nuits, which reappears in Chassagne to the north, reigns supreme. Argovian marl, terre blanche, is the classic soil for Chardonnay in Burgundy, and these vines were planted at a time when Santenay vineyards were almost entirely Pinot Noir. A forward thinking viticulteur indeed!
Hand-picked and slowly pressed. The juice was chilled and oxidised in tank for 24 hours and then racked to 600L and a 400L barrel with plently of oxygen for an ambient fermentation (no temperature regulation) by indigenous yeasts. Aged on full lies, without stirring or Spring racking, for nine months with an extra month in tank on light lies for focus and freshness. Unfined and lightly filtered, bottled under DIAM 10.1173 bottles made.
Rich yellow-apple fruit and flint. Rich, spicy and nutty on the palate, with a full-bodied style. Plenty of depth and mineral expression. (16.5) JancisRobinson.com
Andrew and Emma Nielsen have been making this stylish, slightly old school Santenay Premier Cru since 2013. Rich and textured, this is all about fruit rather than oak, with appealing leesy weight, a hint of skin tannin, some honey and stone fruit and supporting acidity and freshness. Rightly popular in this micro-négociant’s range. (93) Tim Atkin MW